![]() And today’s bankable nostalgia, if that’s what it is, focuses on the jewel in the crown, India.Ĭertainly, Dishoom is hardly the only restaurant in London where Indians or Britons of Indian ancestry astutely sell a commodified dream of the Raj to Britons. and perhaps share a little bit of our love for Bombay food and culture with them,” Shamil Thakrar has said.ĭishoom is catching a wave of colonial nostalgia as Britons time-travel to the era when the people of this rain-soaked dot in the dismal north Atlantic raped, traded, pillaged and murdered their way to running the biggest empire the world has ever seen. “We feel privileged to be able to serve the guests. Earlier this year, it was voted by reviewers of Yelp as the best restaurant in the UK – beating Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, Gordon Ramsay’s eponymous restaurant and L’Atelier De Joël Robuchon. In 2010, Shamil and Kavi Thakrar, and Amar and Adarsh Radia, founded the first Dishoom in Covent Garden. There used to be about 400 of these cafes now fewer than 30 – such as Britannia Restaurant and B Merwan – remain. Each of Dishoom’s three branches is designed to evoke the old cafes of Bombay set up by Zoroastrian immigrants from Iran. Dishoom – which means “Kerpow!” in Bollywood films – offers an alluring, if sanitised, reproduction of a dining experience that thrived during the Raj. ![]()
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